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Transfer Slides Into Digital Format - Questions

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This indicates it must be better suited for the ES-1 (without extra extension). If scanning these old slides is your only goal, and assuming you already have the DSLR, and can discover an extension tube for DX, you may compare the macro lens expenditure with a film scanner. The lens is not a film scanner naturally, and a digital electronic camera will NOT be ideal to copy color negative to digital film, however it works for slides.

The Nikon 60 mm macro lens is exceptional for any close-up work, and I slides to digital service reviews 'd assume the other comparable lenses are great too. I predict the macro would rapidly become your favorite lens. This ES-1 setup works very well for scanning mounted slides rapidly - like convert slides to digital gloucestershire magic after you master it.

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The macro lens optical quality is remarkable, but the other elements are possibly not really optimum (rush, installing, framing, etc), not the like a genuine movie scanner. However still rather easy, and which seems more than good enough for this purpose to regain thousands of old slides for nostalgic purposes.

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Frankly, due to the months of work that would be required on a film scanner, to digital this job went years without happening at all. Above is a sample image copied from a 1990 35 mm Kodachrome slide, using the ES-1 setup with the D 70S, 6 megapixels (is a cropped 1.5 x body).

The image is significantly bigger than your display screen, and to see complete size, you might need to conserve the larger image and view with an Helpful site image editor, or you could turn off Automatic Image Resizing in your web browser. The cam macro lens seems the obvious bet for superior optical quality. :-RRB- Results are clearly sufficient. And did I mention it is extremely fast? Evaluating extremes possibly, but here is the same slide copied with a Canon A 620 Power follow this link Shot compact video camera (point & shoot) in its macro mode. No additional accessory was used - its macro mode gets this close if zoomed to wide-angle.

Pixel measurements are roughly equivalent to scanning at 2500 dpi. This was a rapidly kludged setup for the one image here. (My technique: keep overdoing things to fix the next instant problem). The camera was on a tripod. The slide was literally standing up on edge on top of a light stand pole, accepted a piece of tape.

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This light was a 150 watt family incandescent lamp (possibly 2900K?) in a ten inch clamp-on energy reflector on a light stand (about 15 inches from slide), through a plastic Tupperware tray (yet another light stand) covered with a white bed sheet to diffuse it sufficiently (this lighted area should be a couple of feet wide, the slide at 1/2 inch is a wide angle circumstance).

The JPG was a little blue, and was changed here with -Blue and +Red. Automobile exposure was ISO 100 and 1/80 second (time hold-up shutter to let electronic camera stop shaking). This camera takes 4:3 pictures, but the slide was 3:2, so completions are cropped. Or, a little bit more range would have made the image smaller sized so it would all fit, and then it might have been cropped to 3:2.

A straight edge held to the leading railing on the right reveals a similar bow, which is obvious. Substantial vignetting (dark corners). This is a quite severe scenario for the little compact electronic camera lens. Not exactly sure you would actually want to attempt this, but it can work. I did feel the very strong need for a practical slide holder.

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Compacts don't define their macro recreation ratio, so the calculator can not include them. Many other methods of holding and lighting up the slide are definitely possible. If you have a longer macro lens, you definitely require something other than the ES-1 anyway. You simply require a diffused light behind the slide, and a video camera and macro lens in front of it.

One typical way positions a lighted white paper or foam board background a foot approximately behind the slide, with the video camera and macro lens on a tripod in front. Slide holder could be a plastic pill bottle screwed to a board, with a slot cut at leading to hold the slide standing.

Cam tripod screws are a common 1/4-20 UNC screw (Unified Thread Standard, coarse thread, 1/4 inch diameter, 20 pitch per inch), common in any North American hardware store. Speedlight flash is also fantastic for freezing camera shake. Or, simply standing the slide on a regular lighted slide arranging tray is basically the same thing, pointing the lens at it, rear lighted.

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The holder needs to be easy and quick and steady, you do not desire it to move. Here's a cool DIY concept shared by Jim Simpson in Nova Scotia Canada. The grooved mounting for slides is 3/4 inch wood knobs, and it looks extremely handy and simple to run. Tokina 100 mm macro lens on Nikon D 7100 cam, utilizing a white screen flashlight app (Android).

White balance is Cloudy, or Shade often (fixing private slides will vary a little). Mounting the camera and the slide on the same board minimizes any possibility of camera shake. Obviously, these do have to be installed at the proper distance so that the slide fills your frame at your typical 1:1 or 1:1.5 focus distance.